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What's a good first gun?
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2018-01-28 at 7:52 AM UTC9mm Browning.
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2018-01-28 at 8:42 AM UTC
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2018-01-28 at 8:46 AM UTC
Originally posted by ZambianIntelligenceAgency So basically its available for civilians but you just have to seek it?
no idea honestly; I don't live in the US. I'm thinking there might be a difference between SS190-Duty and the SS190-BALL they're selling but that's more research than I care to do considering I can't buy it.
Originally posted by HTS If you're considering a 1911, OP… a Hi-Power would be the way to go. 1911 action, in 9mm, as revised and perfected by the God of Gun, John Browning himself. Sort of.
isn't Hi-Power considered cheap, poorly built and unreliable? -
2018-01-28 at 8:51 AM UTC
Originally posted by aldra isn't Hi-Power considered cheap, poorly built and unreliable?
Thinking of Hi-Point, a manufacturer of notoriously shit guns. They're cheap though, and some people swear by 'em as being reliable little shooters. Of course, if a nigger is robbing somebody, this is also the melaninated individual's gun of choice.
I'm talking about:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Browning_Hi-PowerThe following users say it would be alright if the author of this post didn't die in a fire! -
2018-01-28 at 12:52 PM UTC
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2018-01-28 at 1:47 PM UTC
Originally posted by ZambianIntelligenceAgency It can penetrate body armor. How is that a junk caliber?
firstly...even if it does penetrate the armor...then what happens? nothing, because the bullet is so small with so little remaining energy the target isn't even going to notice.
secondly....the armor penetration rounds are restricted and you can't buy or own them. -
2018-01-28 at 9:39 PM UTCStart with this.. then work your way up to a real one
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2018-01-28 at 9:48 PM UTCOP is the ultimate retatd-victim and should not be around guns.
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2018-01-28 at 11:29 PM UTC
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2018-01-28 at 11:39 PM UTC
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2018-01-28 at 11:50 PM UTC
Originally posted by infinityshock i thought about writing a post on it awhile ago when i was doing it regularly but now i cant be arsed. in a nutshell…
the epoxy/self pour ones…expect to do a few as practice…and prepare yourself to break/chip/bend/fuckup the first few before you actually get one that works and looks good. have a good/accurate thermometer since the temperature is the most important part of the process. dont mix too much or too fast/quickly or youll add bubbles that never come out. i was experimenting with a high-frequency vibrator for the molds but the couple that i did came out the same with or without the vibrator as when i just tapped the mold with a hammer.
Thanks!
Do you prefer these over 80% lowers? If both are done well, does one have an advantage over the other (time-wise, quality, etc.)?
Originally posted by infinityshock the 80% metal ones…use decent bits when milling. that shit from harbor freight wont do it. if all you have is a hand-drill to do the cutting and not a mill…dont waste your time. just buy a 100% lower. make sure you have machinist-grade measuring tools that can make precise markings for precise cutting.
i have seen an 80% lower that was made into a rifle using a hand-drill…by someone who knew absolutely nothing about gunsmithing…and it actually fired…but it was a fucking abortion and an embarrassment to gunsmiths/armorers everywhere.
those are the main points that i can remember.
The idea with the 80% would be to get a decent milling set-up and practice with it so I don't butcher anything. Using a hand-drill would be a nightmare. Just buying a 100% lower defeats the purpose though, as the goal is to avoid serial numbers/registration. -
2018-01-29 at 1:56 AM UTC
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2018-01-29 at 3:03 AM UTC
Originally posted by D4NG0 Thanks!
Do you prefer these over 80% lowers? If both are done well, does one have an advantage over the other (time-wise, quality, etc.)?
The idea with the 80% would be to get a decent milling set-up and practice with it so I don't butcher anything. Using a hand-drill would be a nightmare. Just buying a 100% lower defeats the purpose though, as the goal is to avoid serial numbers/registration.
the molded plastic ones are 'easier' to get right and make...not counting wait times...but on the other hand they are easier to fuck-up.
i prefer a 100% lower for usage as a final product but if i wanted a ghost-gun id go for the 80% because the final product is sturdier and longer lasting. for ease of manufacture, ease of disposal if necessary, (an AR lower receiver doesnt have any forensics value in tracing a bullet/casing) id say the molded lower.
the thing with the molded lower is once you start, theres no stopping and you cant wander off and stop paying attention to it. the 80% you can mill as much...or as little...as you want in sessions and take your time. -
2018-01-29 at 3:10 AM UTC
Originally posted by infinityshock the molded plastic ones are 'easier' to get right and make..
I was just watching the clint eastwood and john malkovich film.
Also, weird. "Stranger in the house" is on.. we talked about this somewhere (someone other than you infinity) but it's not the original with Gary Busey.. its one made for TV 2016
already boring me.. i wonder if it is just the same title.. im waiting for someone to move into the attic already. -
2018-01-29 at 9:37 AM UTCGuys he is just gonna shoot his mom with it.
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2018-01-29 at 10:38 AM UTC
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2018-03-14 at 1:19 PM UTCholy shit, shitposters actually gave advice in this thread.
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2018-03-14 at 4 PM UTC
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2018-03-14 at 4:02 PM UTCGet your Mom insured today. Don't delay.
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2018-03-14 at 4:04 PM UTC
