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Digital thermostats are fucked
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2019-04-11 at 5:12 PM UTCIf these bitches behaved as ordered, I'd be gettin laid now.. There's backups tho..
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2019-04-11 at 5:14 PM UTC
Originally posted by stl1 Take the front off the thermostat (or, on really cheap models you'll need to remove from the wall) to get to the low voltage wiring. You will normally find 4 wires color coded red, green, yellow and white. The red wire is incoming power. The green wire turns on the furnace blower at high speed (heat comes on at a lower speed through, normally these days, a circuit board at the furnace). The yellow wire turns on the outdoor A/C condensing unit. The white wire turns on the furnace. If there is a fifth wire, it will be for a neutral to power the thermostat then only using the batteries as backup. The fifth wire could also be for a reversing valve but only on a heat pump system.
Removing the white wire should stop your furnace. If not, your problem probably lies within your furnace such as a stuck gas valve although you may possibly have a short between the red and white wire somewhere.
The very easiest way to stop the system is to turn off the switch on the side of the furnace. It should look just like a light switch. If the gas continues to flow, you have a stuck gas valve (very rare…I can only remember finding one in my HVAC career and it was on a water heater and involved a valve that continued working with the pilot blown out).
Hope this helps! PM if need more help. If you're going to replace the thermostat, my recommendation would be a Honeywell thermostat.
..or just flip the breaker.
Jesus... -
2019-04-11 at 5:16 PM UTCWhich breaker?
I can just see Boo walking around the house resetting all the clocks on his stove, microwave, etc. because the breakers weren't labeled and the furnace was the last breaker.
Boo buys Hunter t-stats. -
2019-04-11 at 5:22 PM UTC
Originally posted by stl1 Which breaker?
I can just see Boo walking around the house resetting all the clocks on his stove, microwave, etc. because the breakers weren't labeled and the furnace was the last breaker.
Unlabeled breakers suk.. Should be a law, no wait, then half assed politicians would make more money for bullshit laws... -
2019-04-11 at 5:25 PM UTC
Originally posted by stl1 Which breaker?
I can just see Boo walking around the house resetting all the clocks on his stove, microwave, etc. because the breakers weren't labeled and the furnace was the last breaker.
Mine are all labeled, any electrician worth his salt will have them labeled and any householder worth his salt would too.
Worst case you're an idiot and have to reset a few clocks, first world problem. AC/Heater is usually ones marked 30A. -
2019-04-11 at 5:29 PM UTC
Originally posted by stl1 Which breaker?
I can just see Boo walking around the house resetting all the clocks on his stove, microwave, etc. because the breakers weren't labeled and the furnace was the last breaker.
Boo buys Hunter t-stats.
who use clocks on these devices and who keeps the clock they dont look at accurate -
2019-04-11 at 5:31 PM UTC
Originally posted by vindicktive vinny who use clocks on these devices and who keeps the clock they dont look at accurate
My stove doesn't even have a clock, nor does my washing machine...old school shit so when the EMP goes off I'll still be able to cook my soup and wash my smalls (or rather my illegal mexican maid will) -
2019-04-11 at 5:51 PM UTCIt fixed itself
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2019-04-11 at 6 PM UTC
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2019-04-11 at 6:05 PM UTC
Originally posted by Jiggaboo_Johnson Mine are all labeled, any electrician worth his salt will have them labeled and any householder worth his salt would too.
Worst case you're an idiot and have to reset a few clocks, first world problem. AC/Heater is usually ones marked 30A.
Wrong, Kilowatt breath! Obviously, you are referring to an electric furnace while I was referring to a gas furnace (by far the most prevalent in St. Louis). Low voltage wiring will be the same regardless at t-stat.
An electric furnace usually will have breakers on the furnace and wouldn't normally require going to the fuse (circuit breaker) box. If the OP's problem is with an electric furnace, his most likely problem is with a sequencer. This should be handled by a qualified serviceman as you are now playing with 240 volts rather than the 24 volts used for t-stats. Also, a residential gas furnace is almost always powered by a 120 volt 15 amp breaker. Only in Texas and very southern states would you find an electric furnace powered through a 30 amp 240 volt breaker. One 5 kw element will draw approximately 20 amps by itself. A 20 kw furnace would be powered by a 100 amp breaker. -
2019-04-11 at 6:05 PM UTC
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2019-04-11 at 7:31 PM UTC
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2019-04-11 at 8:23 PM UTCA little selective picking and choosing there, don't you think, Mr. Selective Quoter?
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2019-04-11 at 8:28 PM UTC
Originally posted by stl1 A little selective picking and choosing there, don't you think, Mr. Selective Quoter?
The rest was irrelevant as you noted I was talking of an electric one and so simply flipping the breaker is the easiest way to stop the thing. As always I was correct regarding that which I spoke of.
BOOM GRAMPS...BOOOOM! -
2019-04-11 at 8:34 PM UTC
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2019-04-11 at 8:46 PM UTC
Originally posted by stl1 You said "breaker box" and I said breaker built into the furnace (don't need to flip breakers hoping to get correct one).
DOUBLE BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM, you Limey bastard!
Yup, breaker box is generally more accessible than the furnace itself wHich most of the time here in HOUSTON is up in the attic whereas the breaker box is usually in the a convenient place like the utility room...BOOOOM
Got to bed gramps it's not 1940 anymore... -
2019-04-11 at 9:20 PM UTCBut if it has a battery flipping the breaker won't do shit
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2019-04-11 at 9:23 PM UTCThe battery is just for memory backup in the thermostat
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2019-04-11 at 10:22 PM UTC
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2019-04-11 at 10:55 PM UTCI liked the old ones where you just turned it off with a dial.
